You should keep things simple during autumn and winter on English stillwaters. Untangling leaders or fly-lines with cold fingers is one of the most spirit crushing tasks that an angler must endure. It often results in an early day and a pint or two in the comfort of a warm pub fire for me. This is especially true if the fishing was “challenging” to begin with.
Your first step as always should be to do some background research. There is usually a map of your chosen water posted on the fishery website, and recent catch reports. These can prove a valuable source of basic information giving you details such as bays, points, depths, structure et. Fishery reports will provide information regarding areas that are holding fish and recent successful methods. Additionally, I usually look at the previous season’s catch reports for the same fishery in the time I’m going to work out common areas and themes.
Conditions and Assessing the Water
When arriving, always fish the conditions and choose your method accordingly. Strongly consider any recent changes in the weather and how that may affect your fishing. For example, a sudden influx of “fresh” water (run off from heavy rain, flooding or pumping in) will change the water temperature by at least 2 or 3 degrees. This generally switches the fish off the feed or pushes them deeper. As another example, high winds lead to waters quickly “colouring up” with visibility often reduced to just 2 or 3 feet. Again, this makes fishing extremely challenging. If you have the option avoid these conditions at all costs!
Low Visibility
If you do have to fish it, low visibility means that you should fish slowly. Any pattern moved at speed won’t be seen. It’s also advantageous to use a larger pattern than normal in a dark colour. This will ensure the fly has a good silhouette that will stand out, allowing the fish to see it more easily.
It’s also worth remembering that the fish can feel disturbances in the water down their lateral line. The booby is great for capitalizing on this. It simply ticks all the boxes when faced with difficult conditions. You can fish it slowly at depth. It has movement to induce the take. It has good silhouette, and it causes disturbance.
High Visibility
If the water is clear with a visibility of 7ft or more, then you are able to fish any method you desire. You just have to remember to present your fly at the correct depth.
As indicated in my previous blogs I divide my day into 3 distinct parts and follow a proven formula in order to be consistently successful. I find it allows me to make best use of my time. This is essential now the days are significantly shorter. Time becomes an even more precious commodity.
The First 2 Hours 08:00 – 10:00am
I always attempt to fish into the wind at the beginning of the day. The wind speed generally increases as the day goes on making some areas unfishable in an hour or so—especially if the water starts to colour up from repeated wind or wave action. A bonus is that fish are often pushed downwind and are frequently just a feet from the bank. After making your cast, fish with your rod tip “dipped” 3 to 4 “ inches under the water. This means you are in direct contact with your line and will feel even the slightest of takes that are often “disguised” by wind or waves when anglers fish with their rod tips 18” above the water as is standard practice.
Battling the cold
During autumn and winter the mornings are usually coldest part of the day. The fish still will be lethargic after the low overnight temperatures meaning they won’t want to chase a fly. It’s also highly unlikely that there will be anything hatching at this time, so once again your starting point should be a single lure with a great deal of movement. This will hopefully induce fish that don’t want to feed into a response. A 2 to 3″ Black & Green booby or an Olive Mini Snake on a 6 – 12 ft leader of 8lb is very consistent. This is especially true when retrieved with a medium paced figure of 8 or short sharp 8” pulls with a 2-3 second pause (that allows the fly to enticingly wriggle back).
Generally the banks of our reservoirs and still waters aren’t that deep so a floating line or fast intermediate is best for weighted patterns such as a snake and a Di-3 for booby patterns.
Again work the water depths. Initially allow a count of 5 seconds before retrieving, the following cast 10 seconds, 15 seconds and so on. If you don’t get a response within 10 -15 minutes I advise you move 50m and repeat the process.
Remember you need to find the fish. At this time of the year they will be less likely to be “on the fin” and moving around the water.
The Daytime Session 10:am –14:30
During the summer months the daytime session is referred to as “the graveyard shift” as it’s the most difficult time of the day ( high temperatures, sun etc.). However during the autumn and winter months it’s undoubtedly the peak time and an opportunity to fish naturally that shouldn’t be wasted.
Any hatches at this time of the year are usually from noon until 14:30, which is during the warmest time of the day. Hatches can be very short often limited to just an hour. So, be alert to the changing conditions. Additionally, the adult midge tends to be much smaller than those that hatch in April/May. Size 14’s and 16’s are the norm should you want to accurately “match the hatch”.
Time to move
It’s now time to move. Fish with the wind behind you or in a sheltered bay. Try and find somewhere warm and comfortable (preferably fishing off a point or drop off as fish will still hold around any features). Just by moving to the opposite side of the water you’ll instantly notice a big change in temperature. firstly it will encourage flies to hatch, and it will also give you a renewed confidence.
I tend to hedge my bets as regards a “daytime” method, and although I will now fish multiple flies I still prefer to keep things very simple.
My “go to” line is a floater and a 16ft leader with 3 flies. On the dropper (6ft from the fly line) I always fish a black diawl bach in size 12. A further 5ft (middle dropper) will see me fishing a green cheeked Diawl Bach again a size 12. On the point at 16ft is a 5cm Olive snake. All patterns are natural colours and non scary, and will stand out well in both clear and coloured water. A slow to medium paced figure of 8 retrieve is all that’s needed and the two patterns complement each other perfectly. The weighted snake will fish deeper while the diawl bach’s on the droppers will fish just a couple of feet down.
If you are just catching on the droppers then the point fly may be too deep, if so just change it for an unweighted pattern. An unweighted mini snake (5cm) would do nicely.
Personally I prefer to fish at least one lure at this time of year. I find the movement in the fly can attract fish to your cast, even if they take the nymph on the dropper the lure has played its part and shouldn’t be overlooked.
The Last 2 Hours 14:30 – Darkness
During the Autumn and Winter months the last 2 hours fishing is often one extreme or the other. It’s wonderful, or it’s woeful. A sudden drop in temperature will almost instantly switch the fish off the feed meaning you will struggle on any method or fly. My standard tactic when the light is fading and the temperature dropping is to fish an intermediate line with a 13ft leader of 8lb fluorocarbon. On the dropper (at 6ft from the fly-line) goes that most heinous of all flies the “Cocktail Blob” with a Hummungus on the point at 13ft.
All that you need to do is a steady roly poly retreive. Fish an area for 10 casts then move 25m or so. Your sole aim is to cover as much water as possible and pick up the odd bonus fish. You’re aiming to induce a take through the bright colour of the blob or the movement in the snake.
Conversely if it stays warm the fishing can be excellent although it is unusual at this time of year. Again I would opt for an intermediate line with 2 foam daddies at 7ft and 13ft. I consider the foam daddy to be essential, and I use it more often than just Autumn. It has that buggy natural insect look with it’s long gangly legs that just screams “eat me.” The foam versions cause disturbance and are very successful when pulled. Again a very slow roly poly or medium figure of 8 retrieve is all that’s required in order to be successful. As before, move after fishing an area for 10 casts without success.
General Tips
- Read the features and avoid coloured water. Look at the contours of the bank, this indicates the depth of water in front of you. This is not easy on man-made stillwaters, but maps are usually available and will give accurate details about depths.
- Points channel food across them. They also give you access to a range in water depths and so different water temperatures. They are always a good starting point. iIn addition they usually have some weed growth which will hold food and fish.
- Look for cormorants/grebes working the water. It will often indicate the presence of fry. Look for features, i.e. marker buoys/pontoons drop offs etc. Fish will always be drawn to features
- You must fish the correct depth. Often its best to start fishing deep and slow as it’s coldest early morning.
- Think about your retrieve. It will pull the fly deeper when fishing a sinking line along the bottom, as opposed to a floater and weighted fly that is pulled up.
- Boobies create disturbance (felt down lateral line of fish). They also have big profile so are easily picked out in coloured water. It’s the perfect fly for deep water fishing as they allow for greater depth control
- Wave and wind action can lead to missed takes. Put the rod tip 2 – 3” under the water surface so you’re in direct contact with your fly and the fish.
- Induce the take. If you get a little tap, induce the fish with a pause or speed up should produce a more positive reaction, entice the fish onto your fly.
- Fish location is essential. You can’t catch what’s not there! A response will usually be instant at this time of year. If you have had no follows or takes within 15 minutes always move to find fish.
- Don’t wade initially. Its cold and you will push the fish further out and can also colour up the water. First you should make 5 short casts to 15ft. Then the next 5 casts to 20ft and finally 5 casts at your maximum distance. Work the water methodically in terms of both distance and depth. For example, the first 5 casts let the fly sink for 5 seconds, then 10 seconds etc. Once you get a take concentrate your efforts at this depth.