Boat Fishing Stillwaters for Trout: A Complete Guide

Lochs and reservoirs are huge expanses of water. This will feel especially true if you are more accustomed to fishing rivers or small still waters. They are daunting places for all but the most experienced anglers. This means that many anglers don’t feel comfortable fishing them. I’ve experienced a long and painful journey with many hours of failure and even more time reflecting on my choices. But my experiences have been enjoyable. In this article I thought I’d go right back to basics and provide an in-depth guide for everyone who is considering boat fishing stillwaters for trout. Follow the simple logical steps and it will hopefully provide you with  renewed enthusiasm, confidence and ultimately greater success.

Embrace the challenge

We don’t always feel comfortable challenging ourselves. I get it, it’s hard! Those of us that do will see many around them give up after just one or two sessions if they don’t achieve success. In today’s world it seems the majority crave instant gratification. I implore you to persevere, the rewards are greater than you could have imagined. Firstly, there is the satisfaction of catching fish from a larger and usually “more difficult water.” The quality of the fish is generally of a higher standard as well. They’re fully finned and silvered up.

My skills have been honed on the Midlands and Welsh reservoirs over the last 45 years. In the early days in the 1970’s and 80’s, 1 or 2 fish was an achievement for me and it’s fair to say any success wasn’t instant.

Where do you start?

So how do you approach a large body of water, where do you start? In today’s digital age background checks and reports regarding the water are easily obtained from the fishery website. I consider any background information essential. It’s easy to obtain up to date information regarding the current methods, patterns and general areas. Maps are also generally available depicting depths and indicating the favoured or most well known areas of the water. If not, then Google Earth is a valuable tool and should be studied in order to highlight potential hotspots. You very rarely need to approach a water blind or without a plan.

In the first instance when fishing a new or large water I would always suggest a boat rather than a bank session. A boat gives you flexibility. it allows you to move around the water quickly and easily. And, you can often fish secluded areas not favoured by bank anglers who don’t like long walks. It allows you to maximise your time at the water. There is the additional advantage that you can “fish on the drift” and cover more water. Plus you don’t actually need to cast huge distances from a boat as is often required from the bank.

Essential clothing

Your first consideration when boat fishing stillwaters for trout should be clothing. When fishing from a boat you are totally exposed to the elements. The wind will be more of an influence as shelter from the banks is limited, especially when drifting. The temperature will be 3 or 4 degrees colder on the water so it’s essential you layer up with warm clothes. I have experienced instances when fishing in Wales where I have been cold in the middle of July. I was unable to feel my fingers due to the almost freezing temperatures. This was due to the fact I was fishing at altitude, but the point remains.

Good quality waterproofs are essential when boat fishing and should always be taken even if there is no rain forecasted. There is a very good chance you will get wet when pulling up the anchor, motoring upwind, or motoring across the wind. It’s inevitable that the boat will hit waves and you will get sprayed as a result and potentially end up wet. Without the correct waterproofs this inevitably means cold. I use a heavy duty “bib n brace,” which is the old fashioned “oil skin” type favoured by sea fisherman. Or, I use an old pair of breathable waders. They may not be fashionable, but they provide far more protection than simple leggings. Remaining dry and warm should be your primary consideration.

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A life jacket is essential at all times. Many waters will not let you even set foot on the boat dock if you aren’t wearing a lifejacket. Fortunately most waters now provide them and they are included in the boat hire charge.

Wind speed

Wind speed is always a factor when fishing from a boat, whether you are drifting or anchored. As a general guide I consider:

•  0 – 6 mph calm
• 7 – 11 mph a gentle steady wind
• 12 – 16mph a strong wind
• 17 – 24 mph extremely strong winds with extra care required. 

In reality fishing in winds over 17mph is definitely not suitable for a beginner. It’s both uncomfortable and dangerous. The vast majority of reservoirs do not allow fishing boats out if the wind speeds exceed 22mph for safety reasons.

Setting Up Your Boat

You first step is simply setting the boat up. Ensure that there are a pair of oars in the boat (you may need them if you run aground) and they are stowed securely. Your tackle should be to hand. Do not leave bags, boxes or rod tubes open as they will all get wet at some stage. Your line will also magically be drawn to all other objects in the boat resulting in tangles. So, ensure the boat is as tidy as possible.

Consider bringing a “boat seat” as fishing from an elevated position has distinct advantages. It’s also far safer than standing up, which I strongly advise against. Many fisheries have “thwart boards,” a simple plank of wood that lays flat across the boats gunnels meaning you sit and fish from a raised position.

Starting and stopping your boat

Starting and stopping the boat is often overlooked. To get your boat started:

• Ensure the boat is in “neutral.” The gear lever (on the side or front of the engine) “must” be in the middle or you won’t be able to pull the starting cord.
• Prime the fuel line. This requires you to squeeze the rubber ball from the fuel tank to the engine to ensure the fuel will flow once started.
• Set the choke. If there is one, pull out the choke on the engine to around ¾ and set the engine speed “to 3/4 fast.” This is achieved by twisting the tiller arm clockwise.
• A steady hard pull on the cord should now start the engine. You can then push in the choke and lower the revs.
• Pushing the gear lever (on the side or front of the engine) towards you will allow the boat to travel forwards. Away from you and it will reverse. Remember lower the revs right down before engaging into gear.  To stop the engine simply lower the revs and press the red button hard ensuring it’s depressed for 2 or 3 seconds.

Now that you have the boat started you need to remain safe and considerate of other water users. You need to understand the etiquette and what is and isn’t acceptable.

Boating etiquette

Firstly start off with slow speeds get used to the boat and how it handles and turns. The boat has a number of speeds and you do not need to go everywhere flat out. Remember, when approaching your intended destination, reduce the speed. You cannot catch frightened fish and 20ft of fiberglass with a 10hp engine isn’t discrete. This is especially the case in shallow water.

When motoring to your destination consider the wind speed. If the wind is any more than 11mph and you motor across the wind, then you are going to get very wet. In winds of 15mph+ it is also quite dangerous to motor “across the wind” as a wave could swamp the boat. In these instances you MUST head directly into the wind at a sensible speed (usually ¾ speed). Get to the top of the wind ( the calmer water) and use the bank for protection before turning down wind to your intended destination. It will take significantly longer but you will be safe and dry.

Respect other anglers

As regards other anglers, you should never motor up another boats drift. This will effect their fishing, and cause disagreements and a sharp rebuke. If you need to cut across a boat always try and go behind giving it at least 40m. If this is not possible and your only option is to motor in front of the boat then remain at least 100m away.

It’s also worth pointing out that you should never motor through the water you intend to fish. You want to be especially careful of this if you are repeating a drift. Go round in a wide arch to your start point and cut the speed right down. Half or ¼ speed is usually appropriate.

As regards other water craft (i.e. sailing boats and canoes) you should always give way. Let them go first and ensure you are always a safe distance from them. I have seen windsurfers topple over and actually hit fishing boats on Rutland. I consider 30 – 40m acceptable.

Bank anglers should be given at minimum 50m. However many are very protective and almost territorial. This is even more the case if the boat angler is catching fish and the bank angler isn’t. On the majority of large waters giving space never a problem as the fish tend to be well spread out and there is a huge amount of water. I advise you air on the side of caution and give 70m to bank anglers.

Anchoring or drifting

When fishing from a boat you have essentially 2 options: anchoring or drifting (with & without a drogue). As previously stated you should consider, the wind speed and your chosen method before deciding on if it is appropriate to anchor or drift. 

On anchor

Early and late season in most scenarios I find it better to fish from an anchored boat. The fish tend to shoal tightly and are usually within 70m of the bank in water with a depth of 10 – 16ft. The perfect scenario would be to position the boat 60m off the bank and cast parallel to the bank. This is generally along any weed bed or drop off rather than out into the open often featureless water.

Anchoring is easier than drifting and ideal when first starting out on your boat fishing journey.  Being anchored is simply fishing from a floating platform and allows you to fish water inaccessible from the bank. An anchor usually consists of 3 parts, the anchor, anchor chain and rope.

Calm Conditions

In calm conditions 0 – 6 mph winds you can literally just lower the anchor over the side of the boat and secure the rope to the row lock or “G” clamp. The anchor will just be resting on the bottom with the anchor chain and rope directly above it. This is all that’s needed to hold you in position. 

As previously mentioned, a “G clamp” is essential for any boat angler. It allows you to create a movable fixing point for the anchor rope. This means that by slightly moving the “G” clamp that the anchor rope is fixed. You are effectively creating a different anchor point. The boat will now hold in position at a different angle, it allows you to position the boat so you can effectively cast at the feature or along the bank, putting your flies where the fish are. 

Remember to lower the anchor in gently with as little noise as possible. Do not just throw the anchor in or let the anchor chair rub over the boat gunnels as this will cause huge disturbance. As you are going to be held in position it’s rather foolish to frighten any fish away.  

Stronger Wind

In stronger winds simply lowering the anchor to the lakebed won’t allow the anchor to “hold bottom” and maintain your position. You will drift as the anchor slides, bumping along the bottom and disturbing the fish. The anchor needs to “dig in” effectively and hold in order for you to be held securely. 

In strong winds your first option should be to use the water’s features. Anchor and fish at the “top of the wind” where the water is calmer and the wind strength less. Alternatively seek out protection in a sheltered bay. 

However if your only option is to fish in rough water then you should anchor with a long rope in the vast majority of situations. Consider the following when setting the anchor and boats position.

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How do you anchor in it?

The anchor chain is essential in that it is required to lie flat along the bottom. By doing so it will allow the anchor to dig into the mud/weed. The longer the rope the less acute the angle and the greater the chance of a better hold. Normally I anchor 20 to 30m above the position where I intend the boat to actually rest. This accounts for the long length of rope and chain and anchor slippage when it first hits the bottom. Even with a long rope and the chain correctly deployed the boat will often drift and pull the anchor 10m or so before getting a good firm hold. 

When the boat is broadside (square with the wind), there will be a lot of pressure on the anchor hold due to the increased force/pressure on the boat from waves and wind. It may sometimes be impossible to hold bottom and the anchor may slip. ie in very strong winds.  In these instances let all the anchor rope out so the boat is pointing directly into the wind and anchored by the bow. In most situations this will reduce the pressure on the anchor hold and allow the boat to hold bottom. 

When is anchoring preferable?

Early or late season the fish tend to shoal up so anchoring is usually preferable. It saves you pulling the drogue in every 30 minutes, which results in cold hands that make tying on leaders or flies almost impossible. With the temperatures still in single figures the fish are often lethargic and will have no interest in swiftly pulled flies. So, ‘deep and slow’ is always my first line of attack. Anchoring allows me to control my flies and line easily and achieve the required depth without the need for long casts.  

When fishing any method from a boat (anchored or drifting) you can increase your catch rate significantly by fishing “the hang.” Don’t just lift off to recast at the end of the retrieve. 

Fishing the hang

“The hang” is traditionally a pause at the end of your retrieve. It provides you with an opportunity to induce any following fish into the take. 

To perfect the hang you MUST have line markers on your sinking lines. Most boat anglers use 9ft 6” or 10ft rods so a “line marker” at 14ft is ideal. It allows you to be in total control of your flies and fly line and allows you to hook a higher proportion of following or tentative fish.

How do you create a hang marker?

To create a line marker you can Tip–Ex a 3” section of your fly line. This is a temporary measure and will work for 4 or 5 trips before flaking off. The alternative is to whip 3” of bright tying thread to the line and superglue it (permanent) 

The 14ft line marker will allow you to “traditionally hang” the flies deep for a few seconds (literally a 2 – 3 second pause) when the marker hits the tip ring. The marker makes you aware that the cast is almost over and that the angle is about to change. That’s when you get ready because its an ideal opportunity for you to temp any following fish.

Unlike the word “Hang” suggests do not just hold the flies motionless in the water. Just “hanging” there lifeless, often the fish will often just swim around them. You must induce the take and get the fish to take the fly. So, bounce the rod tip a little or dibble the flies. This is just as essential when fishing nymphs as lures.

Watch your leader line and braided loop. If it suddenly straightens, moves sideways and strike. If you feel any resistance at all strike (hard). Do not just lift into the fish or you will lose it. The rod will absorb the take and you won’t set the hook. It’ll be on for 2 or 3 seconds, but then off. A missed opportunity!  

Drifting

A drifting boat (the boat drifts broadside) will allow you to cover more water and find the fish rather than waiting for them to come to you. It’s an essential tactic on larger reservoirs and stillwaters. Getting good at drifting will dramatically increase your catch rate. It will always be my preferred option from May to November when the fish are spread out.

However despite obvious advantage, drifting makes it much harder to control your line and flies. You need to ensure the fly line, leader and flies are all in a straight line. You can’t have huge bows in the fly line or you won’t be in direct contact with your flies. If you’re not in contact with your flies, you won’t see or feel the takes. To achieve “direct contact” you must retrieve at the same speed as the drifting boat. This will allow you to fish static or on the drop.

You must retrieve faster than the speed of the boat if you want your flies to be moved/pulled and remain in direct contact. So, the faster the boat drifts the more difficult it is to maintain control over your flies and the more effort is required. In 12mph+ winds even with drogue to slow you down it can be tiring to fish on the drift all day.

Using a Drogue

To control the speed of the boats drift many anglers use a “Drogue”. Basically, a “Drogue” is an underwater parachute. It slows a drifting boat down (rather than “anchoring” it to the bottom), which allows an angler to control their flies more easily. It will also allow you more time fishing in an area you know is holding fish.

In very light winds or calm conditions (0-6mph) there is little need for a Drogue as the boat will naturally drift very slowly. But with winds of 7mph+ it’s an essential part of your tackle. This cannot be overstated.  By adjusting the length of the “drogue ropes on either side you can control your drift to some extent and the angle of the boat, this will allow you to drift along a bank or other feature rather than out into open water. It’s important to note that in a swirling wind (along a dam or by a steep bank) the boat often gets caught in a cross wind. This is practically impossible to control no matter how good your boat craft, you need a constant wind direction.

There is often a lot of confusion when setting up a boat and the best positioning of a “drogue.” Almost everyone has their own idea as to what is and isn’t acceptable.

Drogue Types

There are 2 types of drogue. The older traditional 1 point drogue and the relatively modern (since 1990’s) 2 point “para drogue”. Most drogues are 60 x 60 inches (25 square feet) in size which is the maximum size allowed in “international rules” competitions.

Single point drogue

While a single point drogue works fine in slowing the boat down, it isn’t user friendly and can’t be adjusted easily to suit changes in circumstances.The result is the boat often crabs. Crab or crabbing is simply a term used to describe a boat drifting sideways. When it does this, it’s more difficult to control. Being fixed at one point the drogue is much more difficult to retrieve at the end of your drift as you effectively have to pull in a full drogue of water before it collapses.

Two point drogue

A 2 point “para drogue” is much easier to adjust and collapses easily and quickly. It should be your first choice if purchasing new. A slight variation of the 2 point drogue is used by some international anglers who operate a type of “pulley” or “cleat ” system to accurately control the drift along banks – it’s quite technical and not really required by 99% of anglers in everyday fishing scenarios. The following advice is based on a “2 point para drogue” the most common type commercially available and universally used by all competition anglers

• Each rope is best fixed approximately 0.75 from the bow and stern (point and engine) to the side of the boat by means of a loop in the rope over a G- Clamp.
• Each rope should be exactly the same length (international rules dictates 15 feet maximum)
• I start with 2 lengths of 19ft of rope and put 3 x loops in the last 3ft of both ropes (each 1 ft apart)  near the G- Clamp attachment bringing the total length down to 15ft in total. Each loop is exactly the same size and in the same place on both length or rope. This will allow for adjustment when drifting.

Making drogue adjustments

In an ideal scenario the boat would drift square. This gives both anglers an equal chance at any fish swimming up the drift while also allowing both to control their line. However there are always a number of factors that will influence the drift. The main one being the size and weight of your boat partner. A very heavy person on the engine or a very light person on the bow can alter how the boat drifts dramatically. The drift is also greatly effected by wind. Often the boat skews and crabs making line control horrendous, especially when anglers are trying to fish static or ultra slow.

Adjustments can be made by shortening one of the ropes. In practice, this means placing one of the preformed loops over the G Clamp. This really is trial and error on the day.

• If the boat is crabbing sideways to the left away from the engine the person on the point should shorten their rope slightly so the boat drifts square.
• If the boat is crabbing to the right the person on the engine shortens their rope slightly again making the boat drift square.

These fine adjustments can be used to control the boat and let both anglers drift the contours of a bank or a wind lane. Thus, they spend more time on the fish and ultimately will be more successful.

If possible, when the wind is 7mph or less, I tend to initially fish without a drogue (on large reservoirs). I drift faster and cover more water. Then, once I have found a few fish, I repeat my drift and I fish with the drogue out and concentrate my time and efforts in the fish holding area.

Something I need to point out…

I often see a number of “recognised” anglers who fix a 2 point drogue correctly and simply don’t bother to “collapse” it at the end of a drift. They choose to instead “motor off” with the drogue out the boat. This in my opinion is one of the most stupid things you can ever do. I can’t believe people still actually do it. 

• Firstly, in shallow water or when the fish are feeding in the top 7ft, motoring off with the drogue out creates a huge disturbance. There is massive displacement (25 square feet to be precise) of water. Plus, the increased noise from the engine as it strains with the weight of an open drogue. These actions spook fish. It can ruin an area in very little time, yet still people persist and don’t retrieve their drogues.
• Additionally, when the drogue has collapsed and the angler is motoring the drogue flaps about behind the boat often spinning and tangling up. This in turn means it doesn’t open quickly or effectively. Then, the boat often runs over the area and the angler is forced to reverse (with high revs) again spooking the fish.
• Finally the rope can often get sucked into the boat propeller in a high cross wind when turning the boat. I really don’t care how good an angler thinks they are or how many times they have motored with a drogue out and experienced “no problems.” It will happen and I have personally witnessed “international” anglers make this schoolboy error.

Your drift will be impacted

Once the rope is in the prop it’s tightly wound round and almost impossible to get out quickly and easily on the water. Often it has to be cut out. Imaging if you were drifting onto a dam wall in a high wind and you “prop the rope.” Before that rope is free you will be washed up and stuck. Everyone who thinks it isn’t a common occurrence only has to look at the drogues supplied in the Anglian Water boats. Every single drogue is cut up and tied back together as a result of engine damage —meaning the drogue ropes aren’t equal and the boat won’t drift correctly.

Most serious competition anglers now use their own drogue ropes that are thicker and can’t get stuck in the prop. They often incorporate a carabiner at the end of the rope connected to the actual drogue. This allows you to untangle the drogue quickly and easily should there be a problem. And, the extra weight in the carabiner allows the drogue to dig in and set quickly where we want it too. We also always actually pull in the drogue at the end of each drift or when moving. Even so, care must be taken to ensure trailing ropes are not caught in the engine. Even I have done it!

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Rob Edmunds

Rob Edmunds is a stillwater and reservoir fishing expert. "I began fly-fishing at just 4 years old and match fishing soon became my primary focus after first representing England at just 16 years of age. A stellar career beckoned and I've been fortunate enough to win a number (9) of European titles both individually and as part of a team. A creative fly-tyier and responsible for many of the popular patterns we now take for granted (Nemo, Tequila Blob, Traffic Light Buzzer, Snake Booby etc...). My focus has shifted slightly in recent years to targeting specimen trout. Currently the only person to have ever caught at least 1 "double figure trout" from all 4 of the Anglian Water Reservoirs. A regular contributor in the angling press for over 20 years (Trout Fisherman, Trout & Salmon) and well known on the stillwater and reservoir circuit.

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