Summer Fly Fishing on Small Stillwaters
Read Time: 10 Minutes | Published: 7th July 2023 | Author: Rob EdmundsA small stillwater to me is any water under 40 acres, usually stocked on a weekly basis. Often these types of waters are looked down upon by reservoir anglers who generally pour scorn on them. They refer to them simply as “muddy puddles” or “stock ponds”. This stereotype is largely due to the waters of this size having a high stocking density per acre compared to large reservoirs. Also, they have a frequent (weekly) stocking policy. Reservoir anglers wrongly assume that catching a bag limit on these waters is virtually guaranteed and not at all difficult. They think it’s a type of water that beginners frequent before progressing to a “large reservoir” when they are more skillful. I think this is a misguided belief and totally unfair. And, it’s especially untrue when summer fly fishing on small stillwaters.
Summers are difficult on small stillwaters.
Summer is a notoriously difficult time of the season for anglers on any type of stillwater—large or small. Not only that but small stillwaters present their own challenges—they can be almost impossible. The higher water temperature encourage weed growth and a lower oxygen content in the water. This in turn ensures the fish often don’t feed confidently during the day.
Additionally, catch & release is now a common practice on many small stillwaters. This means that there are also increased angler numbers in a much smaller area of water. This has a dramatic effect on the fishing and how the fish react.
I fully accept that the recently introduced stock fish are extremely easy to catch. Any fly moved in front of them is usually enough to illicit a response. This is especially true for bright patterns such as Tequila Blobs. However, the fish soon wise up and become very spooky—particularly at the end of the week when there have been no fresh fish stocked in the water for 4 or 5 days.
A case of extremes
Basically, small stillwaters are (often) a case of extremes. Extremely difficult or extremely easy. If you are fortunate enough to drop on a pod of recently introduced stock fish then you’ve hit the jackpot—if that floats your boat. When that happens, you can enjoy catching fish after fish on almost any method or fly while other anglers around you struggle.
If the day is significantly more challenging then consider the following approach. I tend to adopt this same approach on any stillwater throughout the spring and summer months. It’s served me well over the years and consistently provides a much higher than average catch return.
Fishery rules at small stillwaters (usually) only allow fishing from 7:00am. So, there is no fishing from first light as you would at reservoirs when the fish are really in the feeding mood. As a result, the “prime fishing time” is much shorter.
When fishing these smaller waters I simply divide the day up into 3 parts
- The first 3 hours: 7:00am – 10:00am
- The daytime session: 10:00am – 17:00pm
- The last 3 hours: 17:00pm – close
Summer Fly Fishing on Small Stillwaters: The First Three Hours
When arriving at the fishery I would always initially attempt to fish into the wind at the start of the day. The wind often increases as the day goes on making some areas unfishable by 10:00am.
I never wade into the water initially. I find it just pushes the fish further out or spooks them. It can also color up the water. Instead, I start on the bank and only wade after 5 or 6 casts ensuring that I fish “the inside line” first before making longer casts and wading.
Lure Fishing
Initially on almost every small stillwater the fish will respond well to a lure as they have not received any angling pressure overnight and have not been spooked by anglers wading or by flies and fly lines repeatedly hitting the water. When this is the case, there is no better pattern than a Mini Olive Snake fished with a medium to fast roly poly on a floating or intermediate line. The undulating movement and the natural colours of the pattern almost guarantee action. The water will also be at it’s coolest and it will present you with the best opportunity for a few quick fish. Often they will be in the feeding mood and willing to chase a fly.
However, success will still be limited. You often catch within the first 8 or 10 casts, and then that’s it. Rather than to spend the next two hours in the same spot, fishing the same pattern, in the same way, to the same fish (that have now become a lot more spooky as a result of repeated casts ) I suggest you move and fish fresh water. Then, rinse and repeat. In 3 hours you should have covered ¾ of the bank and can build up a picture of where you consider the fish to be holding and more importantly where they aren’t. This information will be invaluable during the “daytime” session.
My lure fishing setup
A single lure on a 12 – 16ft leader of 6 to 8lb fluorocarbon is often the best option on small stillwaters. Multiple flies can put the fish off instantly. This is especially the case when they’re moved at speed. A single fly allows for longer casts and less tangles. Not only that but it creates a competitive instinct from the trout resulting in more positive takes. It’s also worth remembering that when pulling lures it’s far better to start off slow then speed up the retrieve at the end of your cast. With the odd faster pull only, the sudden change of speed is often enough to get the fish to take your fly. It’s a natural reaction of the fish if it thinks its food is going to escape.
After an hour or two—especially if other anglers are adopting a similar approach—you will find that the whole water will have been covered and the fish will no longer respond to a lure. As such, distinct changes are needed.
Summer Fly Fishing on Small Stillwaters: The Daytime Session
The initial bonanza is now over. The sun will be high and the temperature rising rapidly. The switch has been flicked to “off” and often no-one seems to be catching. The only action a half hearted follow or two to a lure. It’s now the most difficult and frustrating time of the day for most anglers. Despite often seeing fish move they are unable to consistently catch or work out a method. It’s not usual for anglers to methodically work through their fly box trying every fly with limited or zero success.
Experience has taught me a simple approach usually brings rewards at the most difficult times. Think logically: repeated casting, disturbance, large flies and movement only mean one thing to the trout—danger! They have now been spooked and you can’t catch a frightened fish.
Scale down
The first thing you should consider is where the fish are holding. Your initial attack with the lure should have provided you with enough information to make an informed decision as to where you should concentrate. Once I have picked my spot I immediately scale down my leader. I fish a fine line—go as light as you dare. I opt for 6.5lb Fulling Mill Masterclass Flurocarbon. That has a thickness of just 0.185mm. Presentation is now key if you are to be consistently successful.
The next thing is to reduce the number of casts you make to reduce the disturbance. Fish a method that requires an ultra slow retrieve, or better yet can be fished static. Wading should also be kept to an absolute minimum and avoided if possible.
Finally, flies should be scaled down. Fish small, especially in clear calm water. Size 12’s and 14’s should be your “go to” sizes as anything bigger will dramatically reduce the amount of takes you get.
Fishing under a bung
Although often frowned upon by reservoir anglers, you should seriously consider fishing static under an indicator or bung. It’s perfect when the fish are spooky and casting is to be kept at a minimum.
If you’re going to fish a bung, you’ll have to try out Howard Croston’s new Drop Back Bung.
I always keep things really simple on small still waters and fish just 2 flies under an indicator with the dropper fly at 3.5ft and the point fly at 8ft. In most instances you will only be fishing in water 10 to 12ft deep. Longer leaders or additional flies are just not needed and in my opinion are counterproductive in most instances. At prime buzzer time—between April and the end of June—I would see fish an olive buzzer on the dropper and a black goldhead buzzer on the point. The extra weight from the bead will set the cast quickly and mean you are effectively fishing almost immediately. Success at this time of the year is again almost guaranteed.
At most other times of the year I would fish a small weighted blob or egg fly on the point. Again, the weighted head pulls the cast down so you are fishing almost instantly. The dropper can be varied but I suggest a size 12 nymph rather than a lure, for example a Diawl Bach or cruncher.
It’s just a case of casting out and keeping in touch. Fish the flies absolutely static and just wait for the fish to take them. I accept it’s boring and a lot like watching a float. However, it’s an absolutely devastating method on hard fished waters. If you want to catch something, be sure to consider it.
Another option
An alternative option/method would be to fish a “northern spider” or an “apps” type pattern—created by Peter Appleby—on a slow intermediate line. Again, a single fly is best on a leader of around 13 – 15ft. Simply make a cast and let everything settle for approximately 5 – 15 seconds before commencing your retrieve. This should be three short, sharp, six to eight in strips before a pause of 3 seconds. Then you repeat the same protocol. This unusual retrieve makes the rubber legs of the fly pulsate like an octopus with takes often coming on the drop or the initial pull. The olive and amber versions are my particular favourites.
Summer Fly Fishing on Small Stillwaters: The Last Three Hours
The last few hours of the day often mean that many anglers have given up and gone home. This is a mistake in my opinion. The evening often provides the best opportunities of the whole day and some truly fantastic sport, especially in the spring and summer months. The wind will again drop down to almost a whisper. This means the areas that have been unfishable all day should now be on your radar. Now, scan the water look for any sign of activity.
The switch is again flicked to “on” and the fish seem to come on the feed again. Reverting back to the Olive Snake or a Cat’s Whisker Snake would again almost guarantee success. However, there are other more satisfying options, especially during the warmer months.
Small waters aren’t as deep as reservoirs so the water warms up much quicker. It’s not unusual for top of the water tactics like the washing line and dries to be very effective from April onwards.
The washing line
My typical washing line setup would be fished on a floating line and a 15ft leader. This would be broken down into 6 – 8lb flurocarbon with 6ft to a top dropper, a further 5ft to the middle dropper and a further 4ft to the point. Dropper patterns would be size 12 buzzers, crunchers or diawl bachs with the point fly a Mini Tequila Blob Booby. Cast out then strip 3 times to “pop” the booby. This will cause disturbance, which will pull the fish to your cast. Then just slowly figure of 8 the back – it’s simple and so effective.
Dies
I view this evening session as an opportunity to fish my favourite method: dries. Again, I keep things simple and opt for a 12ft leader of 7.9lb copolymer (that’s degreased) with just 2 flies. My dropper pattern at 7ft is always a size 12 Shimpan’s Sugar Lump buzzer in black. This pattern lies flat on the surface just like a buzzer shuck. The foam means that you don’t have to grease up your fly all the time. It’s the perfect dry—or emerger depending on your viewpoint— when the light is fading and fly maintenance needs to be kept to a minimum. My point fly is usually a size 12 ginger hopper well greased up.
I tend to make a cast and leave my dries out. I wait for the fish to find them rather than repeatedly casting over the water and spooking fish. Remember, you are not covering fresh water as you would on a drifting boat. The Shimpman’s will lie flat so you won’t actually be able to see it on the surface. Instead, look at the point fly and if anything rises just in front lift into it. If nothing’s there you are ready to make a fresh cast and cover it accurately.